The exact origin of surfing is unknown, but historians believe that the Polynesians were already well versed in the sport when they migrated to Hawaii some 2,000 years ago. By the time Captain Cook showed up the late 18th century, the sport of he'e nalu, or wave sliding, was widespread. High-ranking chiefs, called ali'i, had access to the best surf spots, and King Kamehameha himself was said to be an avid and skilled surfer.

For early Hawaiians, surfing was a deeply spiritual affair, from the art of riding waves itself, to praying for good surf, to rituals surrounding surfboard construction. Hardwoods hewn into 16 foot surfboards weighed well over 100 pounds, and surfing required a great deal of physical strength. Early surf competitions were used as warrior training, and a means of conflict resolution.

The sport of surfing nearly died out during the missionary days, but it was brought back at the start of the 20th century by a group of upstart Waikiki beachboys led by Duke Kahanamoku. An excellent waterman, Duke went on to become an Olympic champion swimmer. He died at the age of 78, a Hawaiian icon, and one of history's greatest surfers.